Toni Bulloni Trattoria Americana

156 Cumberland Street, Toronto   |   Telephone 416-967-7676
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SARA SAYS…

Siva, the always-smiling majordomo, tends bar, takes orders, serves dinner, pours wine and can cook if required. Friends, lovers and other strangers sit at the bar or up a few stairs at tables in the rear and enjoy their salads, fish or spaghetti and meatballs and feel as if they’re at a house party. That’s the way Siva likes it.

The neighbourhood is aware that the blackboard outside, near the front door, lists the day’s oceanic offerings. Usually, there is sea bass, salmon, scallops, shrimp and snapper. While the huge Italian-style menu is peppered with jokes, puns and quotes, they are quite serious about what comes out of the kitchen.

Sea bass has been scored with a sharp knife so that, when it’s baked, it looks like two large chrysanthemums. And the grilled veal chop is as credible as those served in our top steak houses. A generosity of grilled zucchini, luscious pimento, sautéed rapini and the day’s market-fresh veggies fill the plates. “You serve too much food, Siva,” is what I always end up saying, and he assures me that no one leaves hungry from his domain. And, he says, “We still make the best tiramisu in the city.” Now their horizons have expanded, and there is a new “express” location. What the people want, the people get.