Bistro 990

990 Bay Street, Toronto   |   Telephone 416-921-9990
Web Site   |   Streetview Photo and Location Map

SARA SAYS…

The classic bistro is alive and well on Bay Street. Evocative of an auberge in rural France, this bright yellow and red awning is a beacon of good taste. Right at first glance, the Euro-style decor with faux-stone walls stenciled with Cocteau-esque designs, sturdily upholstered chairs and a tiled floor speaks of easygoing comfort. Enter through the compact lounge, which has long been a favourite haunt for those who like to eat a light meal at the bar. Rumour has it that the martinis rank among the best in town. The wine list has been carefully crafted to suit the cuisine and offers New World and Old World selections. Victor runs the front of house with professional charm and sincere affection toward guests. The superior kitchen is seamlessly paired with bistro informality. Chef Franco Belvedere understands basic comfort foods.

Traditional pâté de maison is partnered with quince jelly. Chicken roasted to crackling crispness is aromatic with herbs and garlic and comes with mashed potatoes; oven-roasted halibut abounds with Provençal flavour. There are always the days’ specials, but the regulars know their favourites and simply will not allow the menu to change. I don’t bother reading; I just order the chicken. The waitstaff, who fit the scene like Holt fits Renfrew, remain loyal. They serve the returning names-in-the-news clientele and their extended families with aplomb. It is a haven for international celebrities of stage, screen and politics who are secure in the knowledge that, once inside this familiar, charming restaurant, they are in good hands.